The Wood the World Wrote With Cedar Key, Florida

Guides · Cedar Key, Florida

Cedar Key Florida: History of the Island and Pencil Mill Town

The town of Cedar Key is smaller than its history. 756 people live where seventeen sawmills once turned a forest into the world's pencils.

Historic Bodiford Drug Store at 409 2nd St., northwest corner of B St.
Historic Bodiford Drug Store at 409 2nd St., northwest corner of B St. Unknown authorUnknown author · CC0

How Atsena Otie Key Named Cedar Key

Before the town, there was the island. Augustus Steele bought the military structures on Atsena Otie Key in 1843 for $227, along with title to its 167 acres. That island became the nucleus of the first organised settlement in the Cedar Keys. Atsena Otie means cedar island in the Creek language—the cedar that gave the whole group of keys its name. The town that followed was built on the wood that grew there and the water that carried it away.

Cedar Key's Pencil Mill History: From Sawmills to Slats

Cedar milling made the town. The Eberhard Faber mill, set up in 1865, cut red cedar slats for pencils. By 1886 the 17 sawmills at Cedar Key were turning out nearly half a million board feet a week. The Eagle Pencil Company also cut here. Cedar Key supplied the wood the world wrote with. Both mills cut pencil slats until the 1896 hurricane and fire damaged them so badly that they closed soon after. For three decades, this was not a quiet fishing village. It was an industrial port whose product went into classrooms and offices everywhere.

The 1896 Hurricane That Destroyed Cedar Key's Mills

The storm that ended it came in 1896. Locals still call the surge the tidal wave. It hit Atsena Otie Key, the island first settled. More than thirty-five houses on the high ground survived the storm surge. The mills on Way Key did not fare as well; the hurricane and fire damaged the Eberhard Faber and Eagle Pencil plants so badly that both closed soon after. The industry did not rebuild. The town did not recover its population. The water that had carried the cedar out had, in one night, carried the reason for the town away with it.

Cedar Key Ruins and Historic Sites: What's Left Today

The physical traces are thin but findable. On Way Key, the Eagle Pencil Company site at 3rd and G Streets is a patch of ground where cedar slats and pencil boxes were made. Nothing marks it but the address. Across the water, Atsena Otie's high ground still holds those houses that survived the tidal wave. The island is accessible only by boat. No bridge, no ferry, no regular service. You bring your own hull or you do not go.

Cedar Key Population and Demographics Today

The census numbers tell a story the town's quiet streets do not. Population: 756 people. Median age: 68.4 years. Of 819 total housing units, 450 are vacant and 269 are held for seasonal or recreational use. The people who do live here are educated—49.7 percent hold a bachelor's degree or higher—and the median household income is $69,226. The median home value is $331,100; the median gross rent is $918. The unemployment rate is 4.2 percent. Not a ghost town. A town repopulated by a different kind of resident, one who came for the water, not the work.

Then (1880s–1896)Now (Census)
17 sawmills operating756 residents
Nearly 500,000 board feet cut weekly450 vacant housing units
Two major pencil mills269 seasonal homes
Industrial port townMedian age 68.4 years
Cedar slats shipped worldwide49.7% with bachelor's degree or higher

Cedar Key Seafood Festival: When to Visit Seahorse Key

The one day the old islands open up is in October. The Cedar Key Seafood Festival, run by the Lions Club, draws more than 100 arts and crafts exhibits, live music, a Saturday parade at 11am, and food. It is also the rare chance to reach Seahorse Key, a historic island three miles out that is otherwise closed to the public.

Atsena Otie has no such public day. You can see its high ground from a boat, or you can swim ashore and walk the shell paths yourself, past the houses that outlasted the storm that killed the industry. The water that made this town is still here. The cedar is gone, the mills are gone, the workers are gone. What remains is a town of 756, most of its houses empty most of the year, waiting for October, when the boats run and the old island gets visitors again.

Common questions

What happened to the pencil mills in Cedar Key?
The Eberhard Faber mill and the Eagle Pencil Company both cut cedar slats here until the 1896 hurricane and fire damaged them so badly they closed soon after. That storm ended the era when 17 sawmills produced nearly half a million board feet weekly.
Can I visit Atsena Otie Key?
Atsena Otie Key, the first settled island, is accessible by boat. More than 35 houses on high ground survived the 1896 tidal wave, but there are no businesses or services there today. Check local boat rentals for transport.
Is Cedar Key a big town now?
No. The population is 756 people, with a median age of 68.4. Of 819 housing units, 450 are vacant, and 269 are seasonal or recreational. It's much smaller than its milling heyday, but that history still shapes the place.
What's the seafood festival like?
The Cedar Key Seafood Festival, run by the Lions Club each October, features over 100 arts and crafts exhibits, live music, a Saturday parade at 11am, and clam chowder, oysters, and smoked mullet dip. It's also your rare chance to visit Seahorse Key, normally closed.
How far is it to other festivals?
Nearby options include Steinhatchee's Fiddler Crab Festival (44 miles), Perry's Florida Forest Festival (76 miles), Dade City's Kumquat Festival (80 miles), and Mount Dora's arts and craft fairs (100 miles). Clermont's Pig on the Pond is also 100 miles away.
What's the cost of living like here?
Median home value is $331,100, and median gross rent is $918. Median household income is $69,226, with a 4.2 percent unemployment rate. Nearly half of residents (49.7 percent) hold a bachelor's degree or higher.

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